Perugia:
City of Chocolate, Art, and a Secret World Beneath Your Feet

If you’re anything like me, you travel for those moments of genuine discovery. It’s not just about seeing a famous painting or a beautiful piazza—it’s about the feeling of connecting with a place’s soul. Perugia doesn’t shout for your attention. It simply takes your hand and never lets go.

Perugia is a little like an onion or one of those Russian dolls: one layer leads to another, one covers another, on top you have palaces centuries old, and underneath an entire hidden Etruscan city thrives in the darkness below the bustling streets.

Turn a corner in the old part of town and it all turns dark and medieval on you and then it is suddenly a bustling piazza filled with students enjoying an aperitivo in the summer sunshine.

This is a city of contradictions: a serious university town with a sweet tooth for chocolate, a place of profound ancient history that pulses with a youthful, modern energy.

It is addictive too. My love affair with Perugia began decades ago, and every return feels like catching up with an old, complex friend. One of my best friends in Italy. Let me walk you through its secrets and share some of the amazing things to do in Perugia.

Things to Do in Perugia

The Beating Heart: Piazza IV Novembre

Piazza IV Novembre

Every journey in Perugia begins and ends in its magnificent central square, Piazza IV Novembre. This is the city's living room, its stage, and its historical core, all rolled into one. The energy here is palpable—especially in the late afternoon, with students chatting on the steps, locals meeting for an aperitivo, the sound of laughter bouncing off the ancient stone.

The undisputed star of the show is the Fontana Maggiore. This stunning 13th-century fountain is a masterpiece of medieval sculpture, carved by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano. Take your time here. Walk around it. You’ll see hundreds of intricate panels depicting scenes from the Bible, Roman history, the zodiac, and even aspects of daily agricultural life from the period. It’s a storybook in marble, and it sets the tone for a city deeply proud of its history.

Fontana Maggiore

Towering over the piazza is the Palazzo dei Priori, a formidable Gothic palace that speaks to Perugia’s former power. Its grand staircase leads you to two of the city's absolute must-see attractions. The first is the Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria, home to Umbria’s greatest collection of art. Wandering its halls is a journey through time, with breathtaking works by Perugino (the city's most famous son), Pinturicchio, Fra Angelico, and Duccio. Seeing Perugino’s serene and elegant paintings here, in the city he was born in, is a special kind of magic.

Within the same palace, you’ll find the Collegio del Cambio, the former hall of the money changers’ guild. While the art gallery is vast, this is a single, concentrated room of awe. The frescoes here are entirely by Perugino at the absolute height of his powers. The vibrant colors, the illusionistic architecture, the serene faces—it’s one of the most complete and beautiful examples of Renaissance painting you will ever see. It feels intimate and overwhelming all at once.

The City Beneath the City: Perugia Sotterranea (Rocca Paolina)

Now, we come to Perugia’s most unique and unforgettable attraction, the one that truly separates it from any other Italian city. To understand it, you have to know a little history...

In the 16th century, after a brutal war, Pope Paul III defeated the rebel Perugians. To signify his absolute control, he ordered the construction of a massive fortress, the Rocca Paolina. But he didn’t just build on empty land. He literally buried an entire quarter of the medieval city—palaces, towers, houses, and streets—to use as the foundation for his new symbol of power. The rich folk of Perugia found their house buried in the foundations of the fortress to punish them for their uprising.

For centuries, this buried city was forgotten. Today, it’s been brilliantly excavated and is known as Perugia Sotterranea (Underground Perugia) or the Rocca Paolina.

Entering from Piazza Italia via a series of escalators (a surreal journey in itself), you are transported into another world. The air grows cool and still. You find yourself walking through the ghostly, preserved streets of 16th-century Perugia. You’ll pass under immense brick vaults—the foundations of the pope’s fortress—and wander through the crumbling walls of ancient houses and the bases of fortified towers that once scraped the sky.

It is haunting, humbling, and utterly fascinating. It’s a powerful lesson in history, not as something dry in a book, but as something physical and dramatic. You are literally walking through the victory of one power and the subjugation of another. I always spend at least an hour down here, letting my imagination run wild, picturing the life that once coursed through these now-silent passageways. It is, without a doubt, the heart and soul of Perugia’s story.

The Etruscan Well 

Now, if you really want to understand how clever and resilient this city is, you have to see how they handled their water. And let me tell you, they built two attractions that couldn't be more different—one that thrilled me, and one that honestly spooked me in the best way possible.

First, the spooky one: the Pozzo Etrusco (Etruscan Well). I’ll be honest, descending into this 3rd-century BC marvel is not for the claustrophobic! You climb down, down, down, 37 meters into the cool, damp darkness, and it’s both terrifying and utterly awe-inspiring. You can feel the genius of the Etruscans all around you. The separate staircases for collecting water, the sheer scale of it… It was built to survive a siege, and standing at the bottom, you feel the weight of that history. It’s a breathtaking feat of engineering, but it’s also a seriously intense experience. I loved every second of it, but I was also very happy to get out of there and see the sunlight again!

The Medieval Aqueduct

For a complete change of pace, seek out the Acquedotto Medievale. This is pure magic. They’ve turned an old medieval aqueduct into the most enchanting elevated walkway. It feels like you’ve been given a secret key to the city. You’re up among the rooftops, looking down into hidden gardens and over terracotta tiles, with the world buzzing below you. I felt like Peter Pan up there on the rooftops, treading a path that felt both ancient and wonderfully peaceful. It’s the perfect, most romantic stroll to escape the crowds and see a completely different, mystical side of Perugia.

Beyond the Centre: Walls, Views, and Sweet Delights

While the center is captivating, be sure to wander. Follow the ancient Etruscan walls and Arco Etrusco (Etruscan Arch), a monumental gateway that has stood for over two millennia. The view from the Giardini Carducci is one of the best in the city, offering a sweeping panorama of the rolling Umbrian hills.

And of course, we must talk about chocolate. Firstly, because I love chocolate a little too much and secondly, because Perugia is the home of Perugina chocolate, and the scent of cocoa seems to waft through the air. A pilgrimage to the Perugina Chocolate Factory for a tour and tasting is a must for anyone with a sweet tooth. But even if you don't make it there, the countless artisan cioccolaterie (chocolate shops) throughout the centro storico will more than satisfy. Don’t leave without trying a Bacio—the iconic chocolate hazelnut kiss invented here.

For a truly unique experience, time your visit for October and the world-famous EuroChocolate festival, when the entire city becomes a dedicated temple to the art of cocoa. It is absolute heaven for chocoholics. Don't come if you are on a diet. 

Perugia Hotels

Perugia offers a fantastic range of accommodation, from historic palazzi to charming B&Bs. Here are my two top recommendations for different budgets.

For the Discerning Traveller (High-End):
Sangallo Palace Hotel: This is my go-to for a special stay. Perched just on the edge of the historic center, it offers the perfect blend of modern luxury and convenience. The rooms are spacious and elegant, the service is impeccable, and the real showstopper is the rooftop terrace bar, which boasts what I believe is the most stunning panoramic view of the city and the Umbrian valley. It’s the perfect place to end a day of exploration with a glass of local Sagrantino wine. The hotel also has an underground spa that connects to the ancient Etruscan wells, a beautiful nod to the city’s layered history.

For the Savvy Traveller (Excellent 3-Star Value):
Hotel Fortuna Perugia: Don’t let the three stars fool you. This family-run hotel, located in a beautifully restored 14th-century building just a stone’s throw from the Piazza IV Novembre, is an absolute gem. I’ve recommended it to countless friends for its unbeatable combination of location, character, and value. The rooms are clean, comfortable, and filled with charm (some have fantastic views), and the staff are wonderfully helpful and authentic. It feels like a true Italian home away from home, putting you right in the heart of the action without the luxury price tag. It’s a confirmation of the fact that the best experiences in Italy aren’t always about five-star glamour.

Getting Around: The MiniMetro and Exploring on Foot

Perugia's ingenious MiniMetro is an attraction in its own right. This fully automated (there are no drivers), cable-free light rail system connects the lower city (Pian di Massiano) with the historic center (Pincetto) in about 12 minutes. The trains glide silently up the hillside, offering panoramic windows with breathtaking views of the countryside. It's kind of creepy the way they move on their own, a bit sci-fi. I guess, as my son always tells me, I am a little bit behind the times. I kind of like it that way.

Once you're in the historic center, walking is the only way to truly explore. The cobblestone streets and alleys of the old town weave through centuries of history. Be prepared for hills and staircases—comfortable shoes are non-negotiable.

Getting to Perugia: From Rome and Florence

One of the joys of visiting Umbria is its accessibility. Perugia is perfectly positioned for day trips or as a central base for exploring the heart of Italy.

From Rome:
By train: Direct regional trains run from Roma Termini to Perugia’s Fontivegge station (approximately 2-2.5 hours). The views as you climb into the Umbrian hills are worth the trip alone.
By car: Take the A1 motorway north, then exit at Valdichiana, followed by the E45 towards Perugia (about a 2-hour drive).

From Florence:
By train: Direct trains connect Firenze Santa Maria Novella to Perugia (about 2 hours), offering stunning countryside vistas.
By car: Take the A1 south, exit at Valdichiana, and continue on the E45 towards Perugia (approximately 1.5-2 hours).

I recommend taking the train rather than driving to avoid the ZTL (limited traffic zone) restrictions in the historic center. Click for more about ZTLs, which are an expensive nightmare for uninformed drivers.

To end...

Perugia is a city that rewards the curious. It asks you to look a little closer, to duck down a hidden alleyway, to descend into its depths, and to savor every bite. It’s a city where a single square can tell you a thousand stories, and where the past is never truly past—it’s right there beneath your feet, waiting for you to discover it. So come here with an appetite, an appetite for history, for art, and for chocolate. You won’t leave disappointed.