Umbria Will Steal Your Heart

I first visited Umbria for the very first time over 30 years ago and instantly fell in love with the regions, the landscapes, the people, and the food. I returned regularly after that for many years, but then, my wife and I got so busy focusing on other regions of Italy for this website and for our ItalyMammaMia.com website that ten years went by without visiting.

On my return, two years ago, something happened that made me realize I need to spend as much time as possible here. I am now in Umbria whenever I get the chance and I have just returned from another few months there.

So what happened?

Well, whenever I haven't visited a place for a long time, I often return to find everything changed, sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse. Restaurants I loved are no more; new buildings are everywhere, etc. I guess that is life in the modern world; everything changes so fast. As they say, change is the only constant.

In Umbria it is not like that.

Take Bevagna, for example. I first visited 18 years ago and recently went back. After nearly two decades, you’d expect everything to have changed. But it hadn’t.

Apart from a few smartphones and updated fashion, the town was exactly as I remembered it—every piazza, every quiet street, every corner. It felt like time had gently paused.

That's why I return regularly now.

When the world feels too fast and noisy, I escape to Umbria. A place where the church bells still set the rhythm of the day, where neighbors stop to chat in the piazza, and where time seems to have gently paused.

Every visit helps me slow down and breathe again.

Here, I remember who I am—not the rushed, modern version of me, but the one who still believes in long lunches, laughter echoing through old streets, and the kind of beauty that doesn’t need to shout.

Umbria doesn’t just recharge my batteries… It brings me back to myself.

The Must-See Towns to Visit in Umbria

Assisi

Assisi is probably the best-known and most visited town in Umbria—but don’t let that put you off.

Yes, it draws plenty of visitors, but the crowds are usually manageable, and the town has never lost its soul. Locals still fill the piazzas, and the festivals here aren’t just tourist events—they’re woven into daily life and held for the community, by the community.

Unlike places such as Venice, Assisi hasn’t become a museum or a postcard backdrop. It’s a living, breathing town where real people live, work, and celebrate. Despite its fame, it has held onto its authentic Umbrian charm.

Perugia

It's not a very big city, but it is the biggest city in Umbria and the capital of the region. It also holds lots of secrets. Underground Umbria is a treasure trove of newly discovered lost Etruscan towns filled with ancient streets, villas, and homes. An Umbrian version of Pompeii in a way. Above ground too, there is plenty to discover in the city that is known as Italy's city of chocolate: there are chocolate festivals, elegant piazzas, cathedrals, a medieval old town and incredible walks along ancient aqueducts.

Spello

 I once shared a story here about an American family who chose to move to Spello. At the time, I received a lot of messages asking, “Where is Spello?” or “Why Spello?” The people asking had one thing in common—they’d never been. My answer was always the same: go there. Spend even a day in Spello, and you’ll understand exactly why they never wanted to leave. shared a story on this website

Trevi

Trevi, a charming hill town in Umbria, enchanted me from the moment I arrived. Within just a few days, I had already made many new friends. The locals were incredibly welcoming and generous—some of the warmest people I've ever met.

And the town itself? Absolutely captivating. Around every corner are breathtaking views, and the medieval lanes are lined with pretty stone cottages that feel lifted from a storybook.

Trevi stole my heart—and I’m sure it will steal yours too.

Bevagna

Umbria is often overlooked by tourists, and within Umbria itself, Bevagna remains one of its best-kept secrets. Tucked among vineyards and olive groves, this charming little town feels untouched by time. Its medieval streets, Roman mosaics, and relaxed pace offer a glimpse into authentic Italian life. I definitely recommend spending at least a day here—but you may find yourself wanting more.

Take a slow stroll through the historic center, stop for a coffee in the main square, and visit the ancient Roman baths. If you can, come during the Mercato delle Gaite festival in June—it’s pure medieval.

Orvieto

Everyone thinks of the region of Tuscany when they think of hill towns. But here’s a little secret: Umbria’s hill towns are just as breathtaking—maybe even more so. Take Orvieto, for example… It’s a place that will wow you at every turn. From the dramatic setting to the stunning cathedral and quiet piazzas, I have no doubt you’ll fall in love with it, just like I did.

Montefalco

While towns like Assisi dazzle with Umbrian charm, they also draw the crowds—especially between June and August. But if you’re searching for somewhere a little quieter, more personal, and just as beautiful, then Montefalco might be exactly what your heart needs.

It’s not exactly a hidden gem—Montefalco was built in full view, perched proudly atop a hill that’s earned it the nickname “the Balcony of Umbria.” And once you’re up there, it’s easy to see why. The views stretch out for miles across olive groves and vineyards, and there’s a gentle stillness to the town that feels untouched by time.

There’s an old part of Montefalco and a newer one, but even the modern corners carry that relaxed, lived-in atmosphere. Life here unfolds slowly: a morning coffee in the piazza, a stroll through medieval lanes, an afternoon glass of Sagrantino—the bold red wine that Montefalco is famous for.

It doesn’t shout for your attention, but Montefalco has a quiet confidence. It belongs to Umbria in the most authentic way—and if you give it a chance, it just might capture your heart. Discover more in our Guide to Montefalco.

Gubbio

Gubbio doesn’t charm you with pastel walls or hanging baskets. No, Gubbio wraps you in golden stone—solid and timeless. It stands proud on the slopes of Monte Ingino, with medieval buildings that rise like a fortress from the earth.

It's a town of a hundred little moments you'll always remember. One moment you’re gazing out across all of Umbria from the vast Piazza Grande. The next, you’ve slipped into a tiny trattoria where the truffle pasta is rich, the wine is local, and the world slows down for a while. Ancient history surrounds you—the Roman amphitheater where the ghosts of actors long forgotten lurk, and the mighty Palazzo dei Consoli reminds you just how powerful Gubbio once was.

Take the little funicular up to the basilica and you’ll soar over rooftops into the hush of the mountain woods. It feels like stepping into a dream.

And if you’re lucky enough to be here in May, the Corsa dei Ceri will stop you in your tracks. A centuries-old race of courage, faith, and sheer energy—like the town itself, it’s real and unforgettable.

Gubbio has nothing to prove. It simply is—unyielding, magical in its own way, and impossible to forget.

Foligno

Foligno is a great base to explore nearby towns like Spello, Montefalco, and Rasiglia; however, it also has a lot to see as well. The town’s lively piazzas, elegant palaces, and beautifully restored cathedral make it worth more than just a stopover. Foligno has an authentic Umbrian feel—less touristy than many other towns, with a local rhythm that’s easy to fall into. Wander its historic center, enjoy a leisurely aperitivo, or explore the fascinating Trinci Palace. If you’re here in September, don’t miss the Giostra della Quintana, a colorful medieval joust that brings the entire city to life.

Todi

Todi isn’t loud or showy. It doesn’t try to impress. It doesn’t need to. Perched high above the Tiber Valley, this graceful Umbrian hill town simply waits—quietly, confidently—knowing that once you arrive, you won’t want to leave.

I remember the first time I visited. I had no expectations. I’d heard it was beautiful, but I’d heard that about a lot of places in Italy. Todi was different. It wasn’t just the views (though they are spectacular) or the golden light on the stone buildings. It was the feeling. A stillness. A sense that time had slowed, just enough for you to catch your breath and really take it all in.

You can wander through its medieval streets without a map and somehow always find your way to Piazza del Popolo, one of the most elegant squares in Italy. There’s history here, of course—Roman ruins, Gothic churches, Renaissance palaces—but Todi doesn’t shout about any of it. It just gently reveals itself, little by little, as you stroll and sip and sit in the shade.

It’s not on most tourists’ radars, which makes it even more special. Come for a day if you must, but stay longer if you can. Let Todi work its quiet magic.