by Josh
(Baltimore)
Hey, fellow travelers! 🛫🌍 I just got back from an incredible trip to Italy, and there’s one thing I just cannot stop thinking about — how late Italians eat dinner! Coming from a place where 6:30 or 7:00 pm is the norm, I was floored by the idea that many Italians don’t even start thinking about food until 8:30 or 9:00 pm… sometimes even later!
At first, it was a bit of a shock. I remember one evening in Rome, wandering the streets around 7 pm, looking for a restaurant. To my surprise, everything was closed! Tables were empty, and waitstaff were barely setting up. But when I returned a couple of hours later, it was like the city had come alive — restaurants were buzzing, people were gathered, and it seemed like every Italian had turned up for this late-night feast. After experiencing it firsthand, I started wondering why this is such a big part of Italian culture. So, let’s dive into it!
1. Why Do Italians Eat So Late?
This was my biggest question. Why is it that people in Italy have dinner so late compared to other countries? It turns out that it’s a combination of historical, cultural, and even climate-related reasons.
First, let’s talk about the Italian workday and lifestyle. In many parts of Italy, especially in the southern regions, the days are long and hot, particularly in the summer. Italians often take an extended break in the afternoon (called "riposo" or siesta) to avoid the hottest part of the day. This means that people go back to work later and finish up around 6 or 7 pm, which naturally pushes back dinner time.
There’s also something so relaxed about the Italian way of life. Italians really value their free time, and mealtime isn’t rushed. It’s not just about eating food, but about savoring it, spending time with family and friends, and catching up. Dinner often becomes a long, drawn-out event, lasting for hours. Italians prefer to eat slowly and socialize, with multiple courses and plenty of wine involved. Eating late allows for that leisurely pace. Can you imagine having a 3-hour dinner at 5 pm?
2. The Weather Plays a Role
Italy, especially the southern regions like Sicily, Calabria, and Sardinia, can get extremely hot during the summer months. During those sweltering hours, eating a heavy meal is the last thing anyone wants to do. So, it makes sense to push dinner back to the cooler evening hours. Italians prefer to wait until things cool down to truly enjoy their meals — which are often hearty and flavorful, think pasta, pizza, and meat dishes.
If you’ve ever been in Italy during the summer, you’ve probably noticed how everything slows down between 1 pm and 4 pm — streets empty out, and people retreat indoors to stay cool. When evening rolls around and it’s finally pleasant outside, everyone is ready to emerge and start their night with a leisurely meal.
3. La Passeggiata: The Pre-Dinner Stroll
Another reason for the late dinner is the Italian tradition of "la passeggiata", or the evening stroll. Italians love to take a leisurely walk before dinner, especially in towns and cities with a beautiful central square. It’s not uncommon to see entire families walking arm-in-arm, catching up with neighbors, and enjoying a gelato before heading home for dinner. This daily routine pushes dinner even later, but it’s such a key part of Italian life that no one seems to mind.
4. Italian Cuisine & Digesting Late-Night Dinners
If you’re worried that eating late might cause indigestion or affect your sleep, Italians don’t seem to share the same concerns. The trick is in portion control and balance. Meals are structured in a way that they’re filling without being overly heavy. Dinner typically consists of multiple courses, starting with a light appetizer, then a primo (pasta or risotto), followed by a secondo (meat or fish), and finally a dessert. While that might sound like a lot, portion sizes in Italy tend to be smaller compared to what some of us might be used to. And let’s not forget the abundance of vegetables, olive oil, and fresh ingredients that make Italian food not only delicious but easy to digest.
Also, Italians take their time. By spreading out the meal over several hours, they give their bodies time to digest in between courses. And of course, ending the meal with a shot of espresso or a glass of digestivo like limoncello doesn’t hurt!
5. Should You Adjust to Eating Late in Italy?
If you’re planning a trip to Italy, should you embrace the late dining culture? My answer is: absolutely! It’s all part of the experience. There’s something magical about dining on a piazza at 10 pm, surrounded by the soft glow of streetlights and the buzz of conversations in Italian. Plus, if you eat earlier, you might miss out on the full Italian dining experience — many of the best local spots won’t even open until 8 pm or later!
However, if eating late really isn’t your thing, don’t worry. In bigger cities like Rome, Florence, and Milan, you can always find a spot that caters to tourists and serves dinner earlier. Just don’t expect the same ambiance and authenticity you’d get with a later meal.
6. Final Thoughts
I have to admit, it took me a few days to adjust to eating so late, but by the end of my trip, I had fallen in love with the Italian dinner routine. The vibe, the relaxation, the laughter, and of course, the amazing food all make late-night dinners in Italy something truly special.
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