Login with your member password below to see your content

Why not become a Supporter?

Click the more info button to see what we offer...

Santo Stefano di Sessanio - Beauty Restored

I have a confession. I’m scared of heights. But that doesn’t stop me from visiting Santo Stefano di Sessanio, in Italy's amazing Abruzzo region, whenever possible. The roads up to this medieval hill town get steep, as do the narrow lanes in the town itself, which all sort of spiral upwards or downwards, depending on your point of view.

Once arrived at La Bifora e Le Lune, our usual B&B, I’m right as rain: cozy and comfortable and enthused by the prospect of a couple of days in what has been voted one of Italy’s prettiest towns.

Santo Stefano is one of those classic feats of old architecture, a tiny town in perfect harmony with the surroundings—all pale stone, terracotta roofs, flower boxes, and balconies, with an assortment of boutiques and restaurants whose chairs and tables spill onto the piazzas and courtyards outside… and it has the most stunning views.

Hardly surprising given its location.

In the heart of the Gran Sasso Mountain National Park, at the very roof of the Apennines, this is a floral wonderland in summer and a skier’s delight in winter

An Interesting Story.

In Roman times, ‘Sextania’ was a fueling point for traffic from Rome to the Adriatic. Built in the 11th century, on top of that settlement, Santo Stefano became a wool-producing center. It saw its heyday in the 16th century under the Medici family, when the town grew to the size it is today. But with the decline of the wool trade, the town suffered poverty and by the mid-1800s was all but abandoned and in disrepair.

Enter Daniele Kihlgren, a Swedish-Italian entrepreneur who, in the early 2000s, began restoring Santo Stefano to its former glory, sparing no expense in converting many of its cottages into modern-day apartments. 

The result is the Sextantio Albergo Diffuso, a unique ‘scattered hotel’ where cottages throughout the town make up the reception, restaurant, and guest rooms.

A description of the hotel that I love—not my own—is “5-star medieval chic.” But don’t get the wrong impression: although it sports all your modern comforts, every part of Sextantio Albergo Diffuso remains meticulously faithful to the way things were. Daniele Kihlgren is emphatically old-world. The cottages that comprise this ‘scattered hotel’ are all authentic. He’s even gone as far as to make a deal with the provincial authority to place a ban on the construction of any new structures in Santo Stefano.

… and I personally applaud that!

Now, I love everything that Daniele has done, but, to be honest, I have never stayed at the Sextantio Albergo Diffuso. The prices are crazily expensive, well beyond my budget. Is it worth it? Well, the reviews seem to indicate that it is, but I'll leave that for you to decide, and I'll keep on staying at La Bifora e Le Lune.

Slow Food

Vegetarians take note: lentils, in a variety of forms, are a staple of the local cuisine. The tiny, dark lentils of Santo Stefano di Sessanio are particularly prized and have been cultivated in this area for centuries. They are protected by the Slow Food Presidia program, which helps safeguard traditional products and the people who grow them. Every year, the harvest is celebrated with the Sagra della Lenticchia, a festival dedicated to this local speciality.

The philosophy behind Daniele Kihlgren’s Sextantio Albergo Diffuso has helped put traditional local food firmly on the map. The emphasis is on regional ingredients, old recipes, and cooking methods that reflect the area’s farming and shepherding traditions. Look for hearty lentil soups, homemade pasta, local cheeses, and lamb dishes.

Saffron is another local specialty. The surrounding area, particularly the Navelli plateau, is famous for its high-quality saffron, painstakingly harvested by hand. You will find it used in local pasta dishes and other recipes, giving them a distinctive flavor and golden color.

There is a dramatic local story about a German nobleman who allegedly bought saffron here centuries ago and mixed it with an inferior product to increase his profits. According to the tale, he was discovered and burned alive along with his adulterated saffron. 

For a meal in the village, try La Zeppa Mangia e Bevi, a small, informal trattoria in the historic center. Its traditional Abruzzese cooking includes local specialties such as lentils, rustic pasta dishes, arrosticini, and the region’s much-loved grilled lamb skewers. 

In and Around Santo Stefano di Sessanio

The mountains surrounding Santo Stefano di Sessanio are ideal for walking, hiking, and cycling, with trails leading across open countryside and into the spectacular landscapes of the Gran Sasso National Park. In winter, the nearby mountains offer opportunities for snow sports, too.

But you don't have to be particularly active to enjoy this part of Abruzzo. Santo Stefano itself is a delight to explore on foot. Wander through its narrow stone lanes, pass beneath medieval arches, and discover little squares and old buildings that tell the story of the village's past.

Look out for the Church of Santo Stefano Martire, with its historic paintings and religious artwork, and the little Church of the Madonna del Lago, which stands beside a small lake just outside the village. The Medici Gate and the reconstructed Medici Tower are also worth seeing, offering a glimpse into the village's medieval history and its links with the powerful Florentine family.

If you have time to explore further, don't miss Rocca Calascio, a spectacular medieval fortress perched high above the surrounding countryside. The views across the mountains are wonderful, and the nearby village of Calascio makes a worthwhile stop, too.

For something a little different, visit the Museo Terre della Baronia to learn more about the area's history and rural traditions. You can also look for local craft workshops and small artisan shops tucked into the village's historic streets.

Throughout the year, Santo Stefano di Sessanio hosts cultural events celebrating local food, music, and traditions. If your visit coincides with one of these, you'll have another reason to linger a little longer.

Getting There

By car, it’s about 95 miles from Rome—less than a two-hour drive—and 50 minutes from Bascianella, using the A24. You can take the Assergi exit and go down the side of the national park, but I suggest you drive through the park. It takes longer, but that’s a bonus.

By bus from Rome: catch the bus for L'Aquila from Tiburtina Bus Station. Take that all the way, then catch the bus for Sulmona. Get off at Barisciano and catch the bus for Castel del Monte, which will take you to Santo Stefano.

By train: from wherever you are, get to the station at Bussi. From there, take the bus to L'Aquila, and follow the directions above.

Most of all, take it slow and enjoy.

Map

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR FREE EZINE