Porto Cervo

Porto Cervo is tucked away in a northwestern corner of the magical island of Sardinia and is at the center of one of the most famous coastlines in all the world—the lovely Costa Smeralda (view article here).

What awaits you along this stretch of coastline are some of the most unforgettable beaches Maria and I have ever come across—anywhere in the world. And we've seen our fair share. The color of the sea here is something else entirely. Clear as glass, with shades of blue that shift by the hour. At times, it feels like the water isn’t real—it’s that beautiful. And yet, it’s completely real, completely natural… and honestly, quite hard to leave.

But Porto Cervo isn’t just about beaches. Not at all. It’s a place with a pulse—stylish, lively, and full of character.

One place we didn’t expect to enjoy quite as much as we did is the MdM Museum—short for Monte di Mola Museum. It’s right in town, and it surprised us in the best way. The collection is bold and interesting, with artworks that span styles and decades. Some made us stop and stare. Others sparked conversation long after we left. The exhibitions are well put together, and you can tell a lot of thought has gone into what’s shown.

As you move through the museum, you’ll see works by well-known artists alongside pieces from lesser-known names—local and international. There’s no flash or fuss, just a genuine focus on creativity and culture. It gave us a deeper appreciation for the area, and for how art still plays such an active role in this part of Italy.

And of course, the town itself... Porto Cervo knows how to make an impression. The streets are spotless and full of energy, lined with glossy boutiques (yes, many of them the type you walk past slowly rather than walk into), small galleries, and cafés that somehow make even a quick espresso feel like a small luxury.

We found ourselves doing what we often do in towns like this—wandering. No plan, no rush, just walking, looking, stopping here and there. And by the end of the day, we both said the same thing: this place has something about it. It’s stylish, yes, but also inviting—if you know where to look and let yourself slow down a little.

To be honest, the pretentiousness of the Costa Smeralda used to be a little tiresome, but now that the nearby Olbia airport offers cheap flights from all over Europe, things have improved, and many normal people are beginning to arrive.

If you do want to see the 1% acting it up, then try to get into one of the exclusive nightclubs or bars.

Where to Eat

Like many of the people in the town, many of the restaurants are of the high-priced and low-substance variety. I leave these sorts of places feeling empty, and Maria fumes about hearty Italian cuisine being ruined by French ideas of "cuisine."

There is not a single restaurant that I can recommend that provides value for money.

Where to Stay in Porto Cervo

Like much else in Porto Cervo, it's possible to pay a fortune and get very little.

One place, though, where the opposite applies and you do actually get good value for your money is the Hotel Balocco.

If you have pots of money, stay with the international film stars at the Pitrizzia Hotel. That's the Pitrizzia's swimming pool in the photo below.

Photos of Porto Cervo's Beaches by Massimo Arrais