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Saluzzo
The Piedmont Town You May Never Have Heard Of

Saluzzo is one of those Italian towns that makes you wonder why more people haven't discovered it. Sitting beneath the Alps with Monviso rising behind it, the town has a beautifully preserved medieval center, elegant old palazzi, narrow lanes, and some seriously good Piedmontese food.

It is also remarkably easy to explore on foot. Give yourself a few hours to wander without a plan, and Saluzzo starts to reveal itself, one ancient doorway, little piazza, and winding street at a time.

Exploring Saluzzo

This is a town that must be explored on foot. The main street is a treasure chest of antique shops; half a day can easily be whiled away in these little shops.

The best way to see Saluzzo is simply to start walking uphill. The streets become narrower, the houses older, and the views over the plain open up between the buildings. Wandering up through the narrow streets of the old town, every corner presents a new discovery. Beautiful bell towers, the palaces of nobles, and ancient houses with huge wooden doors beautifully inlaid are discovered seemingly with every turn

One of the nicest things about Saluzzo is that you don't need a long list of sights.

Put the map away for a while.

Walk up the narrow streets. Stop for a coffee. Look through the little shops. Sit in a piazza. Follow a street simply because it looks interesting.

Eventually you will find yourself at another viewpoint, another old church, or another beautiful doorway.

This is the sort of town where getting slightly lost is part of the experience.

Eventually, though, you will no doubt wander out to the Piazza Castello, dominated by the 14th-century castle—the Mole di Castiglia. Nearby is the Dominican convent of San Giovanni, dating back to 1466.

Don’t miss Casa Cavassa, one of the finest Renaissance buildings in Saluzzo.

Today it is the Museo Civico, but this was once the home of the Cavassa family, important officials in the Marquisate. Inside are painted ceilings, decorated rooms, period furnishings, and works by Hans Clemer, one of the great artists associated with Renaissance Saluzzo. For me, this is one of the places that really brings the history of Saluzzo to life.

Saluzzo also houses the Scuola di Alto Perfezionamento Musicale—The School of Musical Perfection in English.

Visiting in the summer, you may be lucky enough to stumble across one of their outdoor concerts during their summer concert season—an evening concert in one of the medieval piazzas is a memorable experience.

Worth a visit and only a few miles from town is the Residenza Reale di Racconigi; don’t miss the Hercules room, which is a tribute to all things male, and the Diana room, which is a tribute to all things feminine.

Getting to Saluzzo

Only an hour by car from Turin/Torino, its bell towers and ancient spires are visible in the distance as you arrive across the plains, while snow-capped Monviso (source of the River Po) rises up behind the town.

Where to Stay in Saluzzo

As a base to explore this magnificent town and surrounding region, you will find no better place than the Hotel Antico Podere Propano. This is the place I would look at first if you want somewhere with a real Piedmont feel. Antico Podere Propano was a former agricultural estate just outside the center, now converted into a comfortable country hotel.

It has a garden, private parking, and rooms with views towards the surrounding countryside and mountains. It is particularly convenient if you are travelling by car and want somewhere peaceful while still being close to Saluzzo.

Discover the wonderful secret that is the Antico Podere Propano (click for more information and photos).

Where and What to Eat

No visit would be complete without a discussion of the gastronomic delights that await. Italian cuisine and more specifically Piedmont cuisine at its pinnacle, is to be savored here.

Make sure you try the Bagna Cauda or the Ravioli al Castelmagno.

The cheeses to be found in this little town are some of the finest Italian cheeses to be found anywhere. Casa del Parmigiano, I Formaggi di Franco Parola, in Piazza XX Settembre 16, is the absolute pinnacle.

Franco is one of Italy’s leading cheese makers, and his naturally made cheeses are a joy. This shop is a legend in slow food circles in Piedmont and Italy. The variety and quality will ensure that cheese gourmands will find themselves entering a literal cheese heaven.

The cheeses are even wrapped in Piedmont chestnut or cherry leaves to ensure only natural flavors. Try the Toumin dal Mel. 

If you love cheese as much as I do, you will find yourself asking yourself why you don’t move to Saluzzo, which, in any case, is not a bad idea.

The delightful cuisine invites one to enjoy long lunches and a good bottle of local wine from the Colline Saluzzesi in the company of good friends or the love of your life.

The best restaurant to do this at is the Trattoria I Quat Taulin in via Piave 5, tel: 0175 44491. This is an absolute joy and a memorable dining experience.

Where is Saluzzo?

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