The Magnificent Riviera
of Monte Conero & Portonovo

The Riviera of Monte Conero is one of those rare places that still feels wonderfully authentic. Tucked along the Adriatic coast in the Marche region, it’s a stretch of coastline where soaring white cliffs plunge into turquoise waters and where peaceful, unspoiled beaches invite you to slow down and breathe.

It’s absolutely perfect for a family holiday—safe, friendly, and with plenty to explore, from hidden coves to gentle coastal walks. But it’s just as ideal for a getaway with friends, soaking up the sun by day and enjoying fresh seafood and local wine in the evening. And if you’re after a romantic escape, this is the kind of place where time seems to stand still—just you and the amore of your life, the sea, and the scent of wild herbs drifting on the breeze.

Monte Conero - Where to Stay

If you need a good hotel in the area, then Napoleon's Fort (Fortino Napoleonico), right on the sea in Portonovo, is the best option.

In Portonovo too is the Hotel Internazionale Portonovo, which is now a very good choice, having recently been completely refurbished. It is a more affordable alternative to the fort; a good choice should the fort be fully booked...which it often is. 

Exploring Conero

Conero, with its white cliffs that remind me of those of Dover in England, is really unique along an otherwise flat coastline. 

For those who revel in the joys of hiking and walking, this entire area is a dream come true. One trail that I particularly enjoy is the Anello di Portonovo hike through the national park. Taking it at a leisurely pace, it typically spans around ninety minutes, although your own fitness level may influence the duration. Some seasoned hikers might complete it in an hour, but I prefer to savor every moment of the journey.

Along the way, prepare to be awestruck by the vistas that unfold before you. From breathtaking panoramas to sweeping coastal views, the sights are truly unforgettable.

I love the network of well-marked paths that crisscross the entire national park, allowing you to explore on your own and make your own discoveries along the way. I always do that, wander off the more followed trails; and, whether it is here or in Venice, or anywhere else, it has always worked for me and it is how I've made some of my most wonderful discoveries.

Portonovo

If your visit to Italy wouldn't be complete without some history thrown in, then you won't be disappointed either. First up is the watchtower built in the early 18th century to defend the town from pirates, and then there is the beautiful little 11th-century Church of Santa Maria.

For a great view and some more history, it is well worth the effort to drive up to Badia di San Pietro, a hotel in what was once a Benedictine hermitage built in the twelfth century. This is as far up the hill as a car will get you; if you want to go higher up the hill, you will need to hike.

Portonovo itself has only a few hotels (most are in surrouding areas) and some good camping sites. The pick of the hotels, as I mentioned earlier, is just a short stroll from the beach in the old Napoleonic fort built in 1808.

The fort also has a great restaurant, serving delicious local specialties. While dining there, try the famous local wine, Rosso Conero. You'll be in for an unforgettable evening.

Sirolo

Sirolo Conero

Tucked along the beautiful Monte Conero coastline, the little town of Sirolo is one of those places that steals your heart the moment you arrive. It’s peaceful, full of charm, and the views? Absolutely breathtaking.

The beaches here are among the best in Italy—crystal-clear waters, white pebbles, and dramatic cliffs all around. It still amazes me how a place this stunning has stayed so low-key.

But Sirolo isn’t just about the sea. The old town is a delight to explore. You’ll find yourself wandering narrow lanes lined with small boutiques, friendly cafés, and family-run trattorias where the food is honest and delicious—the kind of place where the owner still comes out to chat and the pasta tastes like someone’s nonna made it just for you.

It’s the kind of town that feels like a well-kept secret, and once you’ve been, you’ll wonder why more people don’t know about it.

When to Visit

The best time to visit is late May through early July, or otherwise in early September. The weather in Le Marche is ideal then—not too hot, just absolutely perfect. In late July and August, things get pretty crowded, and it is nearly impossible to get a booking anywhere.

Where is Portonovo & Conero?